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The Potlikker Papers: A Food History of the Modern South, by John T. Edge
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Review
“Long one of the key voices in the discussion of Southern cuisine, Edge challenges the accepted narrative… [and] watch[es] the momentum build until the South comes into its own.”—New York Times Book Review“Edge is an ecumenist when it comes to such culinary crises, and that’s what makes him so wonderful a surveyor of the last 50 years of southern history…Decade by decade, Edge shows that we aren’t just what we eat; we are where that food was grown, how it was cooked, who cooked it, and who all gets to eat it with us.” —The New Republic“To read “Potlikker” is to understand modern Southern history at a deeper level than you're used to. not just a history of Southern food; it also stands as a singularly important history of the South itself.” —The Bitter Southerner “Edge, director of the Southern Foodways Alliance at the University of Mississippi, uses food as a lens to explore Southern identity, seeking to reconcile a legacy of slavery and Jim Crow with who claims the Southern table today.” — NPR“A panoramic mural of the South’s culinary heritage, illuminating the region’s troubled place at the American table and the unsung role of cooks in the quest for social justice.” —O, The Oprah Magazine“In dense detail, this book ranges fluently over the politics, drama and romance of Southern foodways.”— Nashville Scene “A legitimate coup. The book traces the culinary and social history of food in the American South—and doesn’t pull any punches about our country’s past or present.” —Paste“You’ll be hard-pressed to find a more complete take on the South’s complicated culinary legacy and its impact on the nation.” —Wine Enthusiast’s Favorite Books of 2017 “An insightful, refreshing, and at times revealingly ugly examination of food and its place in the South…In the evolving story of Southern food, The Potlikker Papers is a must-read force for good.”—Charleston City Paper“Like sitting down to a bountiful Sunday Southern dinner. Edge uncovers the rich narratives that lie beneath Southern food, illustrating the tangled and compelling webs of politics and social history that are often served up alongside our biscuits and gravy… Edge’s delightful and charming book invites us to pull up a chair for a satisfying repast of tales that illustrate that the food history of the modern South reveals the dynamic character of Southern history itself.” --BookPage “[Edge] has created a canon of Southern food writing that follows in the tradition of legends like John Egerton and Vertamae Grosvenor. The Potlikker Papers is an extension of this cultural plumbing of the South and its meaning in modern America... Edge asks us to consider how we, as Americans, active and passive Southerners, journalists, and eaters, can begin to set the record straight in this very moment—to tell the histories of those living and working in the South with truth and humanity. To recognize them and say their names.”—Saveur.com “Masterful…When it comes to chronicling Southern food, John T. Edge puts his motor where his mouth is, logging many thousands of miles over the years to illuminate these hidden corners of the region’s cuisine like no other…Edge expertly sieves through decades of cultural influences to explore how today’s rich culinary tradition emerged.”—Garden & Gun “The one food book you must read this year…No matter the subject, there is always something to learn from Edge’s work...The Potlikker Papers is a reminder of where we’ve been, how far we’ve come, and how far we still have to go.”—Southern Living “Edge’s research and command of prose make this a necessary history.” —Booklist (starred review) “In the South, Edge notes, food and eating intertwine inextricably with politics and social history, and he deftly traces these connections from the civil rights movement to today’s Southern eclectic cultural cuisine…In this excellent culinary history, Edge also profiles some of the South’s greatest cooks—Edna Lewis, Craig Claiborne, Paula Deen—who represent the sometimes tortured relationship between the South and its foodways.” —Publishers Weekly (starred review) “Mixing deep scholarship, charming anecdotes, and his own extensive culinary explorations, Edge provides a chronological account by decades, starting in the 1950s…What will stick with most readers are the vignettes about specific chefs, restaurants, food producers, food marketers, politicians, celebrities, and race-based relationships…Without question, this is a book for foodies, but it is also for readers who…care deeply about regionalism, individual health, and race relations.” — Kirkus (starred review) "The Potlikker Papers, offers the most honest, brutal, beautiful, and insightful discussion to date on the country’s most complicated cuisine—from the food that fueled the Montgomery Bus Boycott to the Mexican, Vietnamese, and other international dishes that feed the New South." — Southern Living “What we eat tells our story. John T. Edge wonderfully tells the story, through grits, pone, and pig meat, of the ever-morphing American South—fleshing out the caricatures of Harland Sanders and Paul Prudhomme, traveling history’s through lines from the lunch-counter protests of the Civil Rights era to the latter-day flowering of pitmaster chic. So good, so fun, so thorough, so important.” – David Kamp, author of The United States of Arugula“Is “The Potlikker Papers” a history of the South by way of food stories, or a story about Southern food by way of our history? By the time you come to the end of this rigorous volume, you’ll know that the two are indivisible. Edge has long shaped the conversation about food not only in this region but across the country through his pulpit as director of the Southern Foodways Alliance. The Potlikker Papers is his defining contribution to that conversation.” —Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s Favorite Food Writing of 2017 “There are certain writers who you just know have found the perfect form for their creative expression, and so it is with John T. Edge, our preeminent chronicler of southern food and culture. In this rich, compact history of the South through its food and cooks—from Martin Luther King’s favorite fried chicken artist in Montgomery, Georgia Gilmore, to The New York Times’s long-reigning food editor Craig Claiborne—Edge has produced a wonderful narrative of the region’s evolution on race, gender, and justice, with a light-handed knowingness at once sympathetic and critical.” --Diane McWhorter, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Carry Me Home "If I know anything about Southern cuisine it's because of John T. Edge. Somehow he's weaved together a story of how Southern food shaped, not only what was on the table, but American history. " -- David Chang, CEO/Founder, Momofuku "Edge’s book means to be about food, but quickly veers into a close examination of the Deep South, before revealing itself as the smartest history of race in America in a generation." —Jack Hitt “The Potlikker Papers takes readers on an exceptional journey through the modern American South, driven by the expressive power of food as a language and currency of place. John T. Edge’s profound analysis of the region’s vibrant—but always contested---food cultures skillfully navigates the rough road from the civil rights movement’s bus boycotts to the vibrant culinary diversity of the contemporary South. This work is essential reading in the American canon of foodways scholarship.” -- Marcie Cohen Ferris, author of The Edible South “It should come as no surprise that John T. Edge would use a “salvage food” to celebrate ignored and forgotten kitchen stories. Recognizing the unrecognized is what he does. With his trademark style of compelling storytelling, Edge sets a table where everyone is welcome and every story matters — where untold histories teach new truths that challenge beliefs, while salving old wounds. The Potlikker Papers inspirited me with renewed hope for unity not just in Edge’s beloved South but anywhere there is food to eat and people to eat it.” -- Toni Tipton-Martin, author of Blue Grass Cook Book and The Jemima Code “Confidence is a funny thing. Without it, you may cling to poles, draw boundaries, and take aim at the other. The South never had much confidence in me, a foul mouthed, shants wearing, 1st Generation Taiwanese-Chinese-American conceived in Maryland and raised in Orlando. I left as soon as I could swearing I'd never open my heart again. I hadn't thought about it for quite some time, but then John T. boiled off the greens, discarded the nasty bits, and served me Potlikker. In it is a nutrient rich reflection on the South's past, present, and future. It gives me confidence that one day I can love the South all over again.” -- Eddie Huang, author of Fresh Off the Boat “John T Edge has unearthed an extraordinary people’s history of the South, brilliantly told “through its most influential export: food. Like its namesake broth, THE POTLIKKER PAPERS is a concentrated, complicated account of the little-known cooks and humble community-builders who fed each other and fueled a movement for inclusion.” -- Beth Macy, author of Truevine and Factory Man
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About the Author
John T. Edge is a contributing editor at Garden & Gun and a columnist for the Oxford American. In 2012, he won the James Beard Foundation's M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award. Edge is director of the Southern Foodways Alliance at the University of Mississippi and a visiting professor in the Grady College of Journalism at the University of Georgia. He has edited or written more than a dozen books, including The Potlikker Papers: A Food History of the Modern South. Edge has served as culinary curator for the weekend edition of NPR's All Things Considered, has been a columnist for the New York Times, and now hosts the broadcast television show TrueSouth on SECNetwork/ESPN. He lives in Oxford, Mississippi, with his son, Jess, and his wife, Blair Hobbs.
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Product details
Paperback: 384 pages
Publisher: Penguin Books; Reprint edition (February 6, 2018)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0143111019
ISBN-13: 978-0143111016
Product Dimensions:
5.5 x 0.8 x 8.4 inches
Shipping Weight: 11.7 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
3.8 out of 5 stars
55 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#46,946 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
This is a fascinating book that covers the history of Southern living, particularly the struggles of African Americans and the violent racism they had to endure. Reading this book in some ways makes me think we have learned nothing as a nation with politicians still accusing the poor of being lazy and cutting off food programs for children. The books covers how farming and pork co-ops helped many become self-sufficient and how many who were once "the help" went into business for themselves.The Potlikker Papers is a great read and I recommend it to foodies and those interested in 1960's history.
The book is really what seems to be a bunch of sloppily stitched together cultural history essays and biographies of prominent Southerners who have somehow changed food in the South in some way. While there's some good information herein, it's primarily a political science book that could use some tighter editing, an overall unifying thesis, and footnotes on the page instead of buried at the end of the book. The author occasionally launches into long lists of not well fleshed out examples that ramble on like an old man in a rocking chair. Poetic at times, trite at others. There's meat here, but it's a chicken wing, it takes some patience to get at it.
This book is sort of like a gumbo where each individual part is tasty, but just does not come together as a whole. It reads as if there is one, smaller BOOK which wants to come out of it (the beginning and the end, which is a history of the relationship of racism and industrialization of food production, and this part would hold together as an excellent, informative , much needed book), and a series of essays on Southern food, that don't really seem to relate to each other - sort of like a symposium in a journal, or something like that. The materials are all interesting, it's just very easy to stop, anywhere, and not feel like you're compelled to go forward, by what you've already read. Also, and people may disagree with this, to this reader, there is a problem with "sourcing." No footnotes. Everything is documented, at the end, in a "notes to pages x-y" sort of format, but this makes it very difficult to know WHEN the author is leading you to a primary source or not , because there's nothing up front. I would have preferred numbered footnotes, or some other way of knowing what is the author's, and what is coming from another source. It's worth reading , but it could have been much better.
I wanted this book to be good. I admire Edge's work with the Southern Foodways Alliance. But he's off target here. This book is about Southern restaurant food and Southern cookbook writers. You'll read nothing about the food history of what people eat at home. And isn't "what people eat at home" the true trail to understanding the complex story of food in the South? Too bad. Missed opportunity.
A good read but he doesn't have a real southern grandmother that didn't have help in the kitchen.
The southern foodways alliance does amazing things in the southern communities in which they live and work. This book highlights the importance of southern cuisine. Once in awhile you’ll read a book that truly changes your life and your views of the world around you; thanks for delivering that for me with this wonderful book John! I e always sought local food sources, but now I spend more time contemplating why we eat what we do in the south, and the stories of those people who create the diverse food of the South.
wow this brought the sound to life especially since I have been traveling there. Also watching the LBJ documentary at the same time this author almost spoke the same event that the documentary did. get book watch LBJ documentary
Well researched and digging in far beyond the "normal" American history books, this thoroughly enjoyable and sometimes shocking book takes you on a culinary tour of the American South that weaves in the political, social, racial, and cultural history in with the iconic dishes we love. Important work.
Great source of historical information, not just about food but about segregation issues and the impact on the food movements.
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